Illumanu

This tumblr aspires to become a helpful resource for history (and mainly fashion history) research and focuses primarily on illuminations from medieval and renaissance manuscripts.


Note: I am not a professional fashion historian. If you spot any inconsistency or outright fallacy somewhere in the picture descriptions please feel free (or even better, obliged) to let me know!

end of the 14th century (1390s) France - Paris New York, Morgan Library MS M. 526: History of the Bible and of the Assumption of Our Lady by Herman de Valenciennes fol. 33v - Salome and Herodias (Herodes’ feast) http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/IlluminatingFashion/manuscriptEnlarge.asp?page=7 The king presumably wears a high-collared doublet under his surcote, and its sleeves are skin-tight. The man with his hand rested on the table probably wears a high-collared doublet too, but underneath a front-laced cotehardie/paltock.  (Kings and elder figures are always depicted wearing more conservative long gowns; the dashing new fashions on the other hand are primarily reserved for fashionable young men.) Herodias is wearing a sideless surcote of the extreme type, AKA the gates-of-hell. The kirtle underneath is belted. Sleeves of all the ladies’ dresses are long, reaching to their knuckles. Note the extremely high-and-divided-breasted silhouette of the bodice; it seems to have been popular around the turn of the century, although it is still seen on the (in)famous Fouquet’s Madonna (btw, note the hidden lacing and the unusual princess seams of the dress and the fashionable black loop on the Madonna’s forehead).

end of the 14th century (1390s) France - Paris

New York, Morgan Library

MS M. 526: History of the Bible and of the Assumption of Our Lady by Herman de Valenciennes

fol. 33v - Salome and Herodias (Herodes’ feast)

http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/IlluminatingFashion/manuscriptEnlarge.asp?page=7

The king presumably wears a high-collared doublet under his surcote, and its sleeves are skin-tight. The man with his hand rested on the table probably wears a high-collared doublet too, but underneath a front-laced cotehardie/paltock. 

(Kings and elder figures are always depicted wearing more conservative long gowns; the dashing new fashions on the other hand are primarily reserved for fashionable young men.)

Herodias is wearing a sideless surcote of the extreme type, AKA the gates-of-hell. The kirtle underneath is belted. Sleeves of all the ladies’ dresses are long, reaching to their knuckles.

Note the extremely high-and-divided-breasted silhouette of the bodice; it seems to have been popular around the turn of the century, although it is still seen on the (in)famous Fouquet’s Madonna (btw, note the hidden lacing and the unusual princess seams of the dress and the fashionable black loop on the Madonna’s forehead).

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