Illumanu
Note: I am not a professional fashion historian. If you spot any inconsistency or outright fallacy somewhere in the picture descriptions please feel free (or even better, obliged) to let me know!
15th century (ca.1410) France (Paris)
Genève, Bibliothèque de Genève
Ms. fr. 190/1: Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 74v - wife of Candaules; being watched by her husband and Gyges
15th century, illuminated by Flemish masters
Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal
Ms-5070 réserve: Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio (French translation by Laurent de Premierfait)
fol. 116r
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b7100018t.r=.langEN
Seeing the humongous black hat of the gentleman in blue gown, I instantly thought of Mr Arnolfini. Also, the pattens here are of the same design as in the Eyck double portrait. The women wear houppelandes with overturned collars and horned headdresses, supported by padded rolls. The gentleman accompanying the blue lady also wears a padded headdress, and a red scalloped tabards over, presumably, short gown with bag sleeves.
Two interesting points here: Firstly, note the looseness of the blue sleeves of the pink lady’s underdress, and the size of her houppelande’s sleeves (the dress looks almost a cloak, really). Secondly, the houppelandes have a gold line under the overturned collars, reminiscent of the fur edging of the Margherita’s version of the houppelande (which lacks the collar). I think these are some kind of either necklaces or - what I find more likely - applied embellishments.
15th century (ca. 1440), Northern France - Rouen
British Library
Royal 16 G V: Le livre de femmes nobles et renomées (French edition of De mulieribus claris) by Giovanni Boccaccio; illumination by the Talbot Master
fol. 64v - Cloelia crossing the Tiber
http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/record.asp?MSID=8359&CollID=16&NStart=160705
beginning of the 15th century (1403), French - Paris
Bibliothèque nationale de France
Français 598: De mulieribus claris by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 8r - Semiramis with her son
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84521932/f1.planchecontact.r=francais+598.langEN
15th century, French
BNF
Français 239: Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 1r
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8458435h/f1.planchecontact.r=Francais+239.langEN
15th century (ca.1410) France - Paris
Bibliothèque de Genève
Ms. fr. 190/2: Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 169r - “Henry Hohenstaufen torturing the young William III of Sicily, son of Tancred”
15th century, French
BNF
Français 239: Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 109r
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8458435h/f1.planchecontact.r=Francais+239.langEN
beginning of the 15th century (1403), French - Paris
Bibliothèque nationale de France
Français 598: De mulieribus claris by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 6v - Eve; spoiling it all for the Humanking
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84521932/f1.planchecontact.r=francais+598.langEN
late 15th century; French - Cognac
Bibliothèque nationale de France
Français 599: De Mulieribus Claris by Giovanni Boccaccio (French transl.)
fol. 48r - Megullia
http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Mandragore
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b9009638m/f102.item
15th century, French
BnF
Français 239: Decameron by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 102v
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8458435h/f1.planchecontact.r=Francais+239.langEN
Woman on the far right is wearing a puce houppelande with downturned contrasting collar; her sleeves are cuffed and her hem is edged in white. The sleeves are still baggy, but the style of the houppelande is all in all much less voluminous at this stage, on its way to evolve into the full-fledged v-neck “Burgundian” gown.
