Illumanu
Note: I am not a professional fashion historian. If you spot any inconsistency or outright fallacy somewhere in the picture descriptions please feel free (or even better, obliged) to let me know!
second half of the 14th century (1360-1400), French - Paris
Bibliothèque nationale de France
Franais 246: L’histoire ancienne by Wauchier de Denain
fol. 34r - Ninus and Semiramis
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8449715t/f1.planchecontact.r=roman%20de%20fauvel.langEN
later 14th century (1372) France?
Bibliothèque de Besançon
Ms. 434: Traités philosophiques et moraux
fol. 321r
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84540102/f625.planchecontact.r=.langEN
later 15th century (ca. 1470)
Bibliothèque de Genève
Ms. fr. 189: Tristan en Prose
fol. 20r - judgment over an adulterous woman
ca. 1500, French - Tours
Bibliothèque de Genève
Comites Latentes 124: Book of Hours
fol. 205v - Saint Catherine of Alexandria
beginning of the 15th century (1403), French - Paris
Bibliothèque nationale de France
Français 598: De mulieribus claris by Giovanni Boccaccio
fol. 153v - Gualdrada, a Florentine noblewoman, is being offered in marriage by king Otto IV, who was charmed by her beauty and character, to count Guido. On the right sits her father (Bellincion Berti).
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84521932/f1.planchecontact.r=francais+598.langEN
14th century (ca. 1330-1335) France - Paris?
New York, Morgan Library
MS M.456: Instructions for Kings
fol. 55v - wedding
http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/IlluminatingFashion/manuscript.asp
14th century (1349-1351) Austria - Lilienfeld
Cod. 151: Concordantiae caritatis
fol. 181v - detail
http://tethys.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonline/
The young woman wears a chaplet on her loose hair, a kirtle/fitted cote with buttoned wrists and a sideless surcote.
The young man wears a chaplet too. His undercote is buttoned at the wrists. The fitted overgown has a row of buttons at the lower chest down to the hips and is probably slit at the front. The neckline is scooped and fairly deep and the sleeves are ornamentally elongated and open, showing off the lining of the gown.
14th century (ca. 1330-1335) France - Paris?
New York, Morgan Library
MS M.456: Instructions for Kings
fol. 56r - seems to be the Moirai (Clotho, Lachesis, Atropos)
http://www.themorgan.org/collections/works/IlluminatingFashion/manuscript.asp
14th century (ca. 1380) Central France - Paris
London, the British Library
Yates Thompson 21: Roman de la Rose
fol. 8v - “dance of Mirth and Gladness”
The girls are wearing overdresses hemmed with bands of different fabric. The sleeves of their underkirtles* reach to the their knuckles. Two of them are wearing overkirtles with fitchets (side-slits) and tippets (the streamers tied around the upper arm), one a sideless surcote with a pattern of dotted lozenges. One is wearing her hair in sidebraids framing her face. Note that their dresses are fitted and tight, as this illumination is from fairly late in the 14th century.
The gentlemen’s overdresses are also tightly fitted - and extremely short, requiring the young men to wear long hose, tied to their doublets underneath. These outer garments are also referred to as cotehardies - often they have a row of buttons in the front, as can be seen on the lad on the left, and scalloped hems, as on the one worn by the dancer with a chaplet on his head. The low bands visible around two of the gentlemen’s hips are belts - knight’s girdles. The collar-like flaps around their necks are probably their hoods, worn off the head. You can see the liripipe of the hood (the long part protruding from the back of the head part) dangling behind the young man with the chaplet. The dancer on the left is wearing his hood around his shoulders, with the liripipe swung around his neck. The dancers don’t seem to be wearing shoes (which means they hose probably have leather soles), although the musicians are.
*I tend to use the term kirtle for a type of fitted dress (either under- or over-, with varying necklines, sleeves and silhouettes) which evolved in the 14th century from the cote, which in turn was a tunic-type garment (also existing in many variations).
http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=7822
